• Craft Beers  $3.50
• PRIME STEAK BURGERS  $10.   
• w/ super slaw & choice of topping:
• BEC (bacon, egg & cheddar)
• Ala Holstien (anchovie, fried egg & capers)
• COG (caramelized onion & gruyere)
• OR  - Grilled Salmon Sandwich  $10
• New Brat on the Block!   $8  (kim Chee) 

Going there is like rekindling an old flame. The Del-Bar may age but it never loses its allure. Its past makes it all the more interesting. Old-timers just call it “Jimmy’s”—it was owner James Wimmer who molded the disheveled urchin into a grande dame. Today the restaurant is as elegant as two dozen roses, extravagant but not pretentious. The food is supper-club perfect—impeccable martinis, pan-fried walleye, aged steaks and big slabs of prime rib. And remember escargot and shrimp DeJonghe? Everything here is somehow more satisfying. Each day is Valentine’s Day at the Del-Bar.

Photo: LITTLE LUXURIES: (From top) Shrimp DeJonghe is a classic dish—and the Del-Bar does it justice by serving jumbo wild-caught shrimp in herbed butter topped with garlic crumb topping. Below, the savory bone-in filet mignon is U.S. Prime Certified Angus beef topped with in-house seasoning with frizzled leeks on the side.

If cooking in an architectural shrine seems sacrilegious, drive to the Del-Bar (608-253-1861) in nearby Lake Delton, a 300-seat supper club specializing in custom-aged steaks that is an institution in its own right.

Elegance at the Del-Bar. This Lake Delton restaurant is not only one of the best restaurants in the Wisconsin Dells area, it’s one of the best in Wisconsin. Run by the Wimmer family since 1943 and beautifully designed in the Prairie style, it demonstrates that Wisconsin supper-club fare can rise to the level of haute cuisine. THe steaks, the fish and seafood, the chicken and veal and duck – every dish is prepared with expert and close attention to detail. Plus, the sumptuous appointments of the restaurant wrap you in warm luxury. I treasure every experience I have ever had at the Del-Bar.

There are those who love the Wisconsin Dells and those who already have enough T-shirts and fudge. I’m in the latter group, but sometimes I wish I liked the Dells more- because then I would have more occasions to visit the Del-Bar in Lake Delton, one of the best restaurants in the state.
I have always thought of the Del-Bar as the ultimate supper club, but it really doesn’t qualify, because it doesn’t have a salad bar or a relish tray. A real supper club must have one or the other. What the Del-Bar does offer is a strawberry, mango, and mixed greens salad with a light fruit vinaigrette. Or an avocado, tomato, and sweet onion salad, drizzled with lemon, olive oil and fresh herbs. Or, as I enjoyed the other night, a baby spinach salad with a perfect hot bacon dressing, garnished with tomato, radish and white onion. I guess we can do without the salad bar if we really have to.
This venerable restaurant was established in 1943 by Jimmy and Alice Wimmer, and is still running by the Wimmer family. It was designed by James Dresser, a protégé of Frank Lloyd Wright, and the Prairie School Style is evident throughout, from the low-slung roof lines and the overhanging eaves to the warm woodwork, Cherokee red walls, art-glass windows, wood-burning fireplaces and, throughout the multilevel interior, romantic indirect lighting. With starch white linen and candle-lit tables, the total effect is to wrap you in comfort and luxury from the moment you are seated.
The menu includes all the standard supper club dishes-steaks-steaks, fish and seafood, chicken, veal and duck. But the Del-Bar’s treatment of each goes far beyond supper club standard.
Notable among appetizers are a cold salmon plate, broiled sea scallops and the best shrimp cocktail you are likely to encounter anywhere. And on a recent visit, I availed myself of the oyster bar. Washington state kumamotos and Malpeque Bay (Prince Edward Island) oysters where available, but I went for the plump Delaware Bay representatives, which, served on a bed of ice, were beautifully cold, fresh and flavorful, an ideal complement to my Manhattan cocktail. My companion enjoyed her baked mushrooms stuffed with cheese and minced applewood ham, a combination that worked magic of its own.
The Del-Bar prides itself on steaks, as well it should. I have never had a steak here that was less than perfect. A filet mignon was for-tender, moist and richly flavored. The menu also offers a boneless or bone-in ribeye and a 20-ounce strip steak. A special of the night was a broiled, prime flat iron steak, served with bacon, blue cheese, frizzled leeks and mashed potatoes.
Chicken dishes include Cordon Bleu, oven-roasted Amish chicken breast and chicken piccata. There also is a roasted Long Island duckling served with Wisconsin cranberry, wildrice stuffing and orange sauce.
The fish selections change daily, depending on what the fishmonger brings to the kitchen door. On this night, my companion was glad she ordered the roasted wild Alaskan halibut, served with broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots, snow peas and mashed potatoes. This fish was fresh, delicate, unadorned except for a little lemon butter, and totally delicious. As a bonus, it is on the Audubon Society’s “green” list of environmentally friendly fish selections, so you can eat it with a clear conscience.
Other fish and seafood dishes include pan-fried walleye, sashimi-grade ahi tuna served rare with a sesame soy vinaigrette, and steamed Alaskan king crab. The Del-Bar also does wonderful things with jumbo shrimp. The chef’s special, shrimp de Jonghe, is a little heavy for my taste, with all that butter, but I have enjoyed the tempura shrimp, which are perfectly and lightly battered, fried to a golden brown and served with a spirited cocktail sauce.
There is a steamed fresh vegetable platter and a vegetarian pasta primavera for those who eschew (instead of chew) meat, and-a feature I wish more restaurants would offer-side dishes of hot vegetables. The Del-Bar offers butternut squash with toasted pecans, cauliflower and broccoli with hollandaise, and steamed spinach, among others.
Unfortunately, we didn’t have room for dessert, but in the past I have raved about the restaurant’s Key lime pie and strawberry Schaum torte. Maybe next time.
I keep looking for a flaw in the Del-Bar, but to date have been unable to find one. I guess I’ll just have to keep coming back until I do.

The Del-Bar
800 Wisconsin Dells Parkway, South (Hwy 12),
Lake Delton, 608-253-1861
Sun.-Thurs. 4:30-9 pm, Fri. 4:30-9:30 pm, Sat. 4:30-10 pm. Dinners (with soup or salad) $19-$39. Parking, full bar, wheelchair accessible, smoking and nonsmoking sections, children’s menu, major credit cards.

Tasty Trips

The Wisconsin Dells may be a quagmire of kitsch, but the Del-Bar, set along the busy Wisconsin Dells Parkway strip, is a true out-of-town treat-an upgrade of classic Wisconsin supper-club fare. Sound fishy? It is (but won’t taste it) if you order the sashimi tuna with wasabi and ginger. And I recommend you do.
Established in 1943 as a log cabin bar, it has morphed over the years into a James Dresser-designed, Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired Prairie-style establishment. Second-generation owners Jeff and Jane Wimmer’s appreciation for simplicity and elegance come through in the food as well as the décor-the bottom-lit stone women’s room counters and sink basins made me want to rush home and rip out my 1950s green Florida tile. Instead I stayed and feasted on the silver dollar crab cakes that were worth their weight in gold. Also the French onion soup was a perfect prelude to my filet mignon-king crab combo accompanied by diced squash and rutabaga ($48.95). Pricey, I know, but excellent as the recommendations had promised. Entrees range from $20-$48.95.

Contact info: www.del-bar.com;
800 Wisconsin Dells Parkway, Lake Delton,
608-253-1861 or 866-888-1861

Weekend Excursion Uncovers Sweet Treat
John Haverty
Franciscan Skemp
For the first time in five years we went camping on Labor Day weekend. We chose to go to Wisconsin Dells to meet up with family from Chicago. The weather was great, and we did a lot of the things the area has to offer.

What I had not planned on was this attraction called Extreme World. Having a crazy brother-in-law and a wife to match they went on this thing called the Ejection Seat that sent them into the wild blue tethered by an elastic cord. I was asked to participate and refused, then finally agreed to go on a thing called the Sky Coaster. I was promised dinner if I went.

The establishment had its beginning in the 1930s, with the Wimmers taking ownership in 1943. They must be doing something right, I thought. A quick glance at the menu and wine list let me know this would be a good evening.

The escargot and broiled lobster we had as an appetizer were divine. The steak, fish and duck entrees all were perfectly cooked. Our server from New Zealand was flawless and anticipated every need.

Way too full to take one more bite but still having room for dessert, I ordered a chocolate torte. Anyone who reads my column knows I love chocolate, and this dessert was truly chocolate. Rich, buttery, extravagant-I search for the words. Topped off with an espresso, I could not have been happier.

John Haverty, a certified executive chef at Franciscan Skemp Medical Center, writes a column every-other week for the Food Section. He can be reached at chefhaverty@yahoo.com

Without question, the place to head is Del-Bar, a five-decade-old institution in the Dells. Bistro-cum-supper club, it has the most exquisite custom dry-aged Angus steaks and prime rib as well as some creative pastas and excellent seafood, especially the Killer Shrimp. Menu choices for $13-30. Even better is the ambiance, the building was designed by a protégé of Frank Lloyd Wright, and the dining rooms feature fireplaces. Located at 800 Wis. Dells Pkwy. S., tel. (608) 253-1861, it’s open for dinner daily.

MAE: It’s hard to believe sitting in this beautiful Wright-influenced Prairie-style dining room that the restaurant began as a roadhouse with only six tables.

GARY: James Dresser, a protégé of Frank Lloyd Wright, has designed the expansions and updates since 1951. Michelle, out attentive and friendly waitress, said more expansion is planned.

MAE: Del-Bar’s reputation was built on char-broiled steaks, but seafood, chicken and other wisconsin favorites like Wiener schnitzel make choosing a challenge. I couldn’t resist the evening’s special, broiled salmon with a side of garlic mashed potatoes. The salad came topped with huge, savory blue cheese crumbles on a plate of mixed greens. What a treat! GARY: Ask your wait staff for food or wine suggestions. the Wimmers make a point of training staff with wine tastings and menu sampling, and Del-Bar consistently wins Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence. Michelle recommended a delicious Miner (Napa, ’00) Chardonnay and a lip-smacking red, Blockhedia Petite Syrah (Napa, ’01). The white was a nice match for the salad, and the big red could have devoured the juicy bone in the Swiss-style angus steak by itself.

MAE: I saved room for dessert and wasn’t disappointed. I love chocolate, and Del-Bar’s chocolate torte was wonderfully enhanced with fudge sauce.

GARY: That Blockhedia enjoyed pairing with the chocolate, too!

Madison Magazine
Article by:
Gary and Mae Knowles

Gary Knowles and MaePatrice Knowles live in Madison where he is a communications consultant to clients in travel, hospitality and entertainment and she is a media relations specialist for Meriter Hospital.